New Orleans is the last stop on my Greyhound bus American Christmas road trip, in 1988. (The previous stop was Florida, Miami beach in particular – see my travel diaries article)
The vibe is as light as the air…
… and the distinctive architecture of the “French” quarter feels both exotic (even to a Frenchman 😊) and inviting.
Music, often a family business, is, quite literally, on every street corner.
Still, I feel that New Orleans’ soul really starts shining at night – both outside, and inside, for instance in its streetcars, even if not explicitly called “desire”
Although a lot of the jazz cafés look like tourist traps serving sanitized tunes to undiscerning ears…
… other places, like this dueling piano joint, feel more authentic.
We find our best experience behind these aged, grimy doors:
The “Preservation Hall”, iconic and historic jazz club in the heart of New Orleans…
After one shot I decide to turn my flash off, promptly realizing that it was obliterating the atmosphere. I decide to roll with the very dim ambient light only – quite a daring choice given the low sensitivity of my film and the very moderate brightness of my student budget lens…
I have to wait a few weeks to get the film processed and see the results. I am not disappointed, as, looking at my slides, I can feel again the spirit of the place, loud and clear…
… swaying to the beat …
… or just pondering days gone by.
What a wonderful time…
A few hours later, I have to hop on a bus for a 36 hour non-stop journey back to my campus in Philadelphia… (see my travel diaries on my year on campus, and on Philadelphia)
More to come, stay tuned!
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